Tag Archives

Carlisle

OTHER PEOPLE’S FLOWERS: ‘THE GROCERS’ GRAVEYARD’- GERALD KELLY

“Half a fucking ham stuffed up his left nostril and he still couldn’t smell it!” snorted Wally Stewart as he slapped his boning knife down on the counter at the rear of the Co-op warehouse in Carlisle.

The object of his scorn was one of two recently appointed assistant senior managers of the Carlisle Co-op (full name Carlisle South End Co-operative Society, founded in 1904 by a group of railway workers, Carlisle of course being a major railway town with, at one time, seven different railway companies operating there).

Although we didn’t know it at the time, their appointment was the first sign of the beginning of the end for a Carlisle institution which listed branches numbering up to 40 (the number of my local branch in St Ann’s Hill, created to cater for the large number of new houses built to accommodate workers at No 14 Maintenance Unit of the Royal Air Force).

A figure which I remember hearing was that the Carlisle Co-op had a membership of 20,000, this when the total population of the city itself was about 70,000. There was however a very wide hinterland in Cumberland with village branches and one as far away as Appleby in Westmorland, some 30 miles distant. In my time at the Co-op warehouse there were six travelling shops based there which served the local villages, hamlets and farms.

The change the managers were brought in to introduce was the introduction of a huge Cooperative Wholesale Society central supply base in the North East of England from which the Carlisle shops would order all of their requirements directly rather than submitting weekly orders in their own book to the warehouse in Junction St.

This process led, inter alia, ultimately to the demise of the Carlisle C-op and other local independent Co-operative societies and the subsequent emergence of the modern pattern of purely local convenience Co-p stores. A bit of me remains well pleased that the Co-op ethos is still thriving, albeit in a different form to the one I knew, with 6  million active members as of 2023 and with a target to reach 8 million by 2030.

The Carlisle  Co-op central store covered almost half of one side of Botchchergate,  the southern entrance road into Carlisle. Here you could cash in your ‘Divi’ (a return based on how much you had spent in the Co-op in the previous year), furnish your house, clothe yourself and your family, buy all of your groceries for the week, order your coal for the fire, get your hair done, get your teeth seen to, organise a funeral and then have a cheese sandwich and a cup of tea at a funeral breakfast after burying or cremating a relative.

THE DIVI

In the second ‘Carry On’ film, ‘Carry On Nurse’, the character Henry Bray (played by Liverpool-born Brian Oulton) is a snobbish, would-be upwardly mobile, patient.
In a scene set at visiting time scene his wife arrives and proudly shows a new jumper she has just bought with her Co-op Divi. He is very embarrassed at this announcement being made in a public ward!

Is this a reflection of the idea that only the ‘Working poor’ used the Co-op and he didn’t want their social status broadcast?)

Liz Hodgkinson writing in ‘The Oldie’ (May 9th 2022), describes how, for the first time in her life, at the age of 74, she visited a Co-op supermarket.

 

When I was growing up in the then tiny town of St Neots, in Cambridgeshire, only common people shopped at the Co-op. Anybody with a bit of money, such as my mother, would get their shopping from the more expensive food and clothes shops, even when the goods were identical.

 

The process with the Divi was fairly simple – when you bought something you gave your membership number and got a receipt for the payment.

Your purchase amount was then recorded and at the end of the year, depending on how much you had spent you got a percentage back in cash or goods

Part of the site (No 48 Botchergate) is now a Wetherspoon’s called ‘The Woodrow Wilson’, named after the American President whose mother was born in Carlisle.

The text reads: The ideals of the Co-operative Moment, inspired by the reformer Robert Owen, were put into practice by the Rochdale Pioneers, who opened their little store in 1844. All Co-ops were based on the principle of profit-sharing known as the ‘divi’ (or dividend). With each purchase, customers received tokens or tickets, which they could later exchange for cash or goods, the remaining profits being reinvested.

This building was once part of the Carlisle South End Co-op Society store, built in 1904. The Carlisle Co-op was set up by a group of London & North Western Railway workers, who held meetings to publicise their idea in the Deans Hall on Charles Street. Their first shop opened in June 1861.

The original store, on the opposite side of Botchergate, sold groceries and provisions. It opened twice a week, with committee members taking turns behind the counter. Overcoming initial financial problems, a drapery department opened three months later in the neighbouring building. After some years, success was such that the Co-op moved across Botchergate to larger premises. This is the building that you are now in, which opened in April 1869, when the celebrations included a tea-party and a ball.

Top: The Rochdale Pioneers           Left: Robert Owen.

I worked as student in the warehouse in summer holidays between 1963 and 1969. (I started my first teaching job in 1968 but needed the extra cash to get married in early 1970!)

The warehouse was situated in Junction St in the industrial area to the west of Carlisle railway station, on the opposite side of the road from Shadddon Mill (at one time the largest cotton mill in England with its landmark Dixon’s Chimney – the eighth largest in the world at 305ft tall and a landmark visible from anywhere in Carlisle.)

I think the warehouse had originally been part of a complex of woollen mills in the area because there was still a mill stream with dam and sluice gates just opposite the entrance for the warehouse staff. Apparently, when the adjacent mill shut down for the summer break the warehouse staff had earned a bit of extra money cleaning the accumulated debris from the stream and dam. The Co-op dairy was on the same site but we never saw the milkmen who started at 5 in the morning and were long gone by the time we arrived for work at 8.They were a race unto themselves, all of them appearing short and very wiry, used to running from their floats to deliver milk in time for people’s breakfasts. Also there was the shoe repair workshop where a really helpful young man who was deaf and dumb once repaired my own shoes.

The warehouse staff contained  a number of people who had spent their working lives with the Co-op, starting as apprentice grocers and working their way through the grades as “Second Hand”, “First Hand”, “Bacon Hand” as they learned  to manage and serve the wide range of groceries which the average local Co-op shop stored.

One such was the person with whom I first worked on the top floor of the warehouse, Henry Davis. Henry was in his sixties, a small meticulously neat man, a devout Methodist, quietly spoken and very exact in his handling of the orders that came in. In fact he was so meticulous and precise that when he had actually worked in the stores he would, apparently, remove a single raisin or currant from the scale when he was weighing out the loose produce for a customer to make sure she didn’t get a single currant or raisin more than she was paying for!. This was in the days before everything was pre-packed as it is in modern supermarkets. Biscuits would come loose in tin boxes to be weighed out, raisins and currants and other dried fruit would be in large bags.

(A favourite cheap purchase in those days was a bag of broken biscuits!)

Customer complaints led to him being banished to the warehouse (hence my title).

The top floor stored all of the canned produce sold in the shops, peas, baked beans, soups, canned vegetables.

It even stored canned macedoines (mixed vegetables).When I did a web search for macedoines the results showed a predominance of French recipes and products. Tesco, Sainsbury’s and even Waitrose don’t list them as a product. I was steered to specialist online retailers. Fascinating to think that the shoppers of Carlisle were so sophisticated in the 1960s!

I enjoyed working with him as he would sit and talk of olden days and his Methodist faith. He introduced me to the mysteries of A1, A1 Tall and A2, these being the different can sizes, 12oz , 16oz and 20 oz equivalent as I remember.

The  heavy boxes had to be moved using a Slingsby barrow to the hoist and then down to the ground floor to be put with orders from the three other floors in  a pen to await delivery.

The trick with the Slingsby barrow was to have one with a front blade well worn down and sharp so when a set of, say, five heavy boxes of cans of Co-p soup was to be moved, you tilted the boxes forward from the top, slid the blade underneath and then tilted the load back onto the barrow and so away.

Slingsby barrow

You can now buy a vintage Slingsby barrow like the one above for upwards of £90 on the internet!

Another character of similar age and background to Henry was someone whom I shall call William. In contrast to Henry he was a very embittered person, deeply resentful of his transfer to the warehouse. At morning and afternoon tea breaks he would remind us in strident tones of his history in the Co-op and his achievements as Second and Bacon Hand. Unsurprisingly, even though he was obviously an unhappy person, this did not endear him to his workmates.

By total contrast the most cheerful person I came across didn’t actually work in the warehouse itself.

As part of the set of buildings there was a joiner’s workshop where the coffins for the Co-operative funeral service were made as well a garage for the unmarked private ambulance used for the transfer of bodies from hospital or home.

‘Ocky’ as he was known – I never discovered his real name- was a rotund, red faced man with a permanent genuine beaming smile on his face.

On one occasion a couple of young Scottish delivery men had just finished unloading at one of the warehouses bays when Ocky came in and said, “Can you give me a lift with a box boys?”

They agreed and went out with him.

When they had finished one of them said, “That was very heavy!”

“It should be,” said Ocky. “There was a body in it!”

The men just fled!

The ground floor of the warehouse was where all of the goods were initially delivered to be then distributed across four floors. In my first years there the main worker was Danny Harris, probably in his 60s, originally a miner from West Cumberland with the distinctive accent from those parts which sounded (still sounds?) very different from the Carlisle accent. One explanation for the differences is, apparently, that when the Lowther family started to develop coal seams stretching from Whitehaven to Maryport , they brought in miners from the North East of England. The subsequent blending of the Cumbrian accent and the North Eastern one produced unique patterns of pronunciation limited to a fairly narrow coastal area.

(My wife, from Liverpool, tells of meeting an old miner from West Cumberland at a church gathering. His accent was so impenetrable that she maintains she couldn’t understand a word he said!)

A couple of examples of the accent (and dialect) run –

“Hoosta fizzin, marrer?”or “How are you feeling mate?

“Ahs gan yam” or “I’m going home.”

Danny was softly spoken and completely committed to his work. He always approached unloading delivery lorries with concentration and speed, making him hard to keep up with.

Unhappily, on one occasion when he was unloading sides and hams of pigs he maintained his usual speedy pace from the lorry to the big walk-in refrigerator where the bacon was stored. He sweated heavily with the effort and, as I understand, the shift from being heated to being very cold caused him to develop a very bad chill so that he went home sick.

He never returned to work because it was discovered that his heart was damaged.

A few weeks later the same delivery crew arrived and asked me how long the unloading would take,

“About thirty minutes,” I replied.

“Danny used to do it in fifteen!”

“Yes,” I said, “and Danny will never work again!”

I made sure that it did, in fact, take 30 minutes!

I have thought over the years how terribly sad it was that a life dedicated to hard work, providing honest and uncomplaining labour for his wages, should end so sadly.

Danny, like a good number of people within the Carlisle Co-op, was a devout Catholic.

(Conversely, my father-in-law in Liverpool, also a devout Catholic, would not shop at the Co-op because he maintained it was a Communist organisation!)

Danny was the treasurer of his parish conference of the Society of St Vincent de Paul, a grassroots charitable organisation dedicated to giving financial and practical help to those individuals and families in need. Each conference was funded by donations from parishioners and gifts.

At a meeting of conferences in the presence of the Bishop of Lancaster, Danny proudly announced that his accounts showed a £50 surplus. Another conference announced a deficit of 5 shillings (25p). The bishop just said, rather drily, “I’m glad to see one conference knows the meaning of the word ‘charity’!

(This story was told to me by the warehouse foreman, another Catholic and member of the SVP, who on his Sunday afternoons visited The Garlands a large long-stay mental hospital on the outskirts of Carlisle. He would take cigarettes, sweets and companionship to the patients.)

THE SUGAR WALL

Every so often a lorry laden with three and  a half tons of sugar would arrive either from Tate and Lyle in Liverpool or the Sankey Sugar Works in Earlestown (now both closed down, Sankey in1979 and Tate and Lyle in 1981).

The sugar came in packs of fourteen 2lb bags in a heavy paper wrapping making a total of about 275 individual packs to be unloaded.

We had no pallets or fork lift trucks in the warehouse so each pack was lifted on to a set of rollers and passed into the warehouse where someone (often me in the summer) would build a wall of sugar inside one of the pens.

It was a bit like bricklaying.

To ensure stability you laid two packs lengthwise horizontal to the wall of the pen and then three vertically The Gemini AI-generated image shows what it looked like ( allowing for a 60 year time difference.)

FLAVOURS OF THE PAST

Regular visitors to the warehouse were commercial travellers seeking to maximise the sales of their particular products. One such was a rep for Kellogg’s cereals. When the General Manager of the Co-op was on holiday this particular rep persuade the whizz-kid new assistant general mager (not the same one who couldn’t smell gone-off bacon)  to order enough Corn Flakes to feed the whole of Carlisle for three months! The consignment was so big it couldn’t actually fit in the warehouse and had to be stored in the old stables of the adjacent dairy.

I don’t think the assistant manager had a bright future in the Co-op!

A much more welcome visitor was Mr Hoggett, owner of Hoggett’s crisp and pickles factory.

He was always immaculately dressed and wore a smart trilby hat. He spoke with a soft Tyneside (Gateshead) accent and was always pleased to receive an order.

Sadly, the firm is, as far as I know, long gone. However, there is one claim to fame connected with it, namely that a certain John William Hoggett, born in 1869, is reputed to have invented the world’s first flavoured potato crisp – vinegar. Conversely, a correction in the Newcastle Chronicle reads,  The original flavour was cheese, not vinegar, as we said, and it was invented by John William Hoggett, of Hoggetts Food Products, who is still alive and well. It wasn’t invented by his father or grandfather, so there.

(The oldest reference to potato crisps, or ‘chips’  in America and Australia apparently dates from England in 1817).

 

THE HORSE KNEW THE WAY AND THE HAIR OF THE DOG

My most memorable workmate was Harold McCormick. He had been a Co-op milkman and still retained the small wiry frame and hurrying pace typical of the milkmen of that time.

He was in charge of the floor that stored cereals and tea. The popular cereals included Cornflakes, Rice Krispies, Coco Pops, Puffed Wheat, Weetabix and Shredded Wheat

He had served as an infantryman in the Burma campaign but the only thing he ever said about it was that he had learned to smoke on the march up into the hill country and that eventually he and his fellows would even smoke tea leaves!

He still rolled his own at work but not from the tea around him.

Tea ranged from the popular 99 (so-called because originally it was simply the number on the blender’s chart) to the upmarket Indian Prince. Both are still available but in those days only in packet form.

I also learned what kibbled corn is – maize that has that has been crushed or cracked into smaller, more easily digestible pieces, very useful as feed for chickens and birds, especially in a time when more people would have kept hens, other fowl  and pigeons. Carlisle was, and is, still the big town for a large rural hinterland.

A frequent topic around the morning tea break between Harold and Dick the delivery lorry driver was the search for the “Good pint”.

In the 1960s all the pubs in and around Carlisle were government-owned, a relic of 1916 wartime regulations (The Carlisle and District State Management Scheme) to prevent drunkenness among the munitions workers around Carlisle and Gretna. In the 1960s rumour was that the senior civil servant in charge of the scheme in the Home Office was a teetotal Methodist. Pub managers were civil servants, paid the same irrespective of how much or how little drink they sold.

A favourite and much-frequented pub by Harold and Dick was The Joiners Arms, known by them as “The Blue Lugs”, the name apparently coming from the fact that the joiners in the workshop to the rear of the pub had blue ears from the lead in the pencils which they kept behind their ears. Another version says the local workers used blue chalk to mark wood. When not using the chalk they stuck it behind their ears, hence “blue lugs”.

The pub dates back to at least 1785.

The building behind the pub is the McVities biscuit factory which in my day was known as Carr’s Biscuit Works. The girls and women who worked there had a fearsome reputation among those of us boys still at school beyond 15!

‘THE CRACKER PACKERS’ Hazel Reeves

As I mentioned earlier, Harold had been a Co-op milkman in the days when horse-drawn milk floats were still used. He delivered in Stanwix, a northern suburb of Carlisle across the bridge over the river Eden, about two miles away from the dairy. He was very popular with his customers and on Christmas Eve a lot of them insisted upon him having a celebratory drink. Not surprisingly, at the end of his round Harold was a lot the worse for wear because of the drink taken. As he himself told me this didn’t matter because the horse, having done the journey five day a week for the preceding 52 weeks, knew its own way back to Junction St without any guidance from Harold.

To say that Harold was fond of a drink (or several) is an understatement. However, I never once saw him affected by alcohol over the six years I worked with him. He saved it for weekends and holidays. The highlight of his year was in the summer when “The Scotch folk” came to stay. Harold would get a week’s pay plus two weeks’ holiday pay on a Friday afternoon and have it all spent by Monday! He would say how, when sitting “With the company” in a pub, he would go to the toilet and on the way there give the nod to the barman. On his way back a fresh pint would be on the bar for him. He would down that, return to “the company” and ask, “Whose round is it?”

The only thing approaching advice he ever gave me was when he said, “No matter how much drink I had had the night before I always made sure there was a bottle under the bed for first thing in the morning.”

Happily, in the 60 or so years since, I have never had occasion to put that particular piece of advice into practice!

I still remember Harold with great affection. He taught me what it was to earn my wages by  doing a thorough and careful job in fulfilling the orders for the shops we serviced. His voice always softened when he mentioned his wife, “My Evelyn.”  He was universally liked by all in the warehouse and I was genuinely saddened when, a few years later I learned that he had succumbed to heart failure.

 

This, I hope, has been a fond description of, and tribute to, the people of the Co-op warehouse with whom I worked in my summer holidays over six years. I was always accepted, never patronised and always felt valued as one of their team.

After fifty years as a teacher of English I remain proud that I could once hold my own among men who may have left school at fourteen or fifteen with no formal qualifications yet who still taught me what it means to work and behave as a mature adult.

They have all gone into the dark and the site is now occupied by Jewson’s and Kwik Fit.

When I pass where the warehouse once stood they always come vividly to my mind across the 56 years since August 1969 when I got my final pay packet and went back to the rest of my life.

 

Note 1: Gerald Kelly’s previous contribution to OTHER PEOPLE’S FLOWERS is ‘Going Home’: https://davidselzer.com/2024/12/other-peoples-flowers-going-home-gerald-kelly/

Note 2: OTHER PEOPLE’S FLOWERS: https://davidselzer.com/2021/03/other-peoples-flowers/

 

 

OTHER PEOPLE’S FLOWERS: GOING HOME – GERALD KELLY

When David asked me to recall my memories of travelling to Ireland when I was much younger it appeared to be a straightforward task of recalling and revelling in happy memories of four eight-week long summer holidays I enjoyed in the west of Ireland between 1958 and 1961.

However, in June 2024 my eldest daughter and I  completed another quarter of the Wild Atlantic Way from Malin Head to Blacksod Bay, starting with the Giant’s Causeway and the Carrick a Rede Rope Bridge near Portrush in the Six Counties  (a shibboleth!)

A consequence of this was that she bought as a birthday present for me Fintan O’Toole’s  We Don’t Know Ourselves – a Personal History of Ireland Since 1958. Since 1958 was the year of my first ever visit to Ireland the date had a special resonance for me. Even more so was O’Toole’s detailed and incredibly readable account of the religious, social, political, nationalist, economic and other issues that created tensions around Irish life in those days.

A direct consequence was that I had to go back and revisit my memories but this time paying more attention to what now appears much more significant than simple happy memories.

Although I was born and brought up in Carlisle , whenever I visit relatives in DonegalSligo,  Roscommon and Dublin the inevitable query comes up – “How long is it since you were home, Gerald?”

I know where I come from!

My parents were ‘economic migrants’, in that current term of abuse used by right wing politicians, many of whom are, ironically, themselves descended from immigrants.

Some four years after a large part of Ireland had gained a measure of freedom from eight hundred years of English (and later British) misrule, my father from Sligo  crossed the new border to Enniskillen and ‘took the king’s shilling’, spending the next ten years in the army in India maintaining British power over the so-called ‘Jewel In The Crown.’

He never saw the irony!

My mother, a bright and capable girl from Tuam in Galway, travelled to London to enter domestic service with an aristocratic family.

For myself, I have often recalled my Sligo grandmother, who was born in Easkey on the Atlantic coast of Sligo in 1879. She was originally a native Irish speaker. By the time I came to know her in 1958 she only spoke English.

I frequently wonder if she would appreciate the irony of her grandson spending fifty years teaching the English their own language?

 

INTO THE WEST

The west of Ireland is not just a different physical place where, the further west you go, the trees bend towards the east – a result of ‘the haystack – and roof – levelling wind’ from the Atlantic.

It’s a place with wide physical horizons stretching to America.

When I ask my youngest daughter to recall a trip we made to Clifden in Galway, her response is the heartfelt exclamation, “Sea and sky!” Clifden, of course, is where the distance across the Atlantic was shortened to one of time not miles when Alcock and Brown crash-landed in a bog there in June 1919.

The west is also a place of the imagination where writers seek (and find) inspiration for their creativity.

Even the most minute of surveys could include J M Synge  in the Aran Islands in the 1890s, the influence of Sligo on William Butler Yeats, the Kerry of  John B Keane, the Galway of The Lonesome West and The Beauty Queen  of Leenane by Martin Mc Donagh (born and brought up in London but whose mother was from Easkey and whose father was from Connemara), Tom Murphy from Tuam, the powerful playwright of The Gigli Concert and The Sanctuary Lamp among many others, the Claddagh in Galway captured in Walter Macken’s  Rain on the Wind, the Leitrim of John McGahern’s Amongst Women and Conor McPherson’s The Weir, and, very notably, the Donegal of Brian Friel, especially the imagined Ballybeg (Ballybeg, small town).

(However, Stephen Dedalus in A Portrait of the Artist As A Young Man did not share this view of the west. He tells of John Alphonsus Mulrennan returning from the west where he had met an old man.  Stephen says of the old man, “I fear him. I fear his red rimmed horny eyes. It is with him I must struggle all through this night till day come, till he or I lie dead…”).

 

CARLISLE TO TUAM 1958

My first visit was when I was not yet 12 in 1958 when I travelled from Carlisle to Tuam in County Galway.

My companion on the initial part of this first trip was our local parish priest, Michael Curley, a kindly and gentle man who came from Ballinasloe and so counted as a neighbour of my mother.

We travelled via Stranraer-Larne and then by train from Belfast to Dublin.

Such was the respect with which priests were regarded in Ireland in those days that the waitress in the dining car actually curtsied on the fast moving train as she asked, “More tea, your reverence?”

(I must record here that Fr. Curley was, in my judgement, everything a priest should have been – devout, caring, devoted to his duties, unlike the monstrous hypocrites of serial abusers of women, girls and boys who destroyed the standing of the Catholic church in Ireland when, eventually, their manifold crimes and betrayals of their vocation came to light).

The train was late so a quick taxi dash from Amiens St (now Connolly) station to Westland Row (now Pearse) station saw me bundled into the guard’s van of the Galway train just as it was moving!

“There’s no train to Tuam by the time we get to Athenry,” said the guard.

Luckily, my mother had prepared me for this.

“If you get to Athenry late just wait for Tom McGrath to come from Tuam to collect the mail off the midnight train.”

Sure enough, when I got out at Athenry the porter said, “Tom McGrath will be here for the mail so just wait.”

When he did arrive and I explained who I was and how I wanted to get to Tuam his response was, “You’re Mamie’s boy?”

My mother was called Mary and hearing, for the first time, his familiar name for her conjured a whole history of hers which I had never guessed at.

Along with another late passenger, the rent collector in Tuam who had been visiting his son interned in the Curragh for IRA membership, (a policy enacted, ironically, under the government of the arch rebel himself Eamon de Valera), I sat amongst the mail bags in the back of the van and was duly dropped off at my aunt and uncle’s house at about 1.30 in the morning.

“Put some rashers on and wet the tay!” were almost the first words I heard in their house – the universal Irish welcome to a traveller who’s just arrived!

My aunt Freda and uncle Jarlath (a man of whom one of his sons said, “He would never use one word where thirteen would do”) made me feel completely at home over the four years in which I visited them.

Looking back now two things dominate my memory. The first is of Pauline Geraghty, a wonderfully pretty thirteen year old who lived two doors down – but that’s another story!

Her father, however, was a stern looking man who drove the pony and cart for the local laundry run by an order of nuns. This brings to my present mind the horror stories of the Magdalene Laundries run by nuns where unmarried mothers, abused women and girls and those often suffering from psychiatric disorders were effectively imprisoned and made to work for nothing other than their meagre keep.

The second is that, while I am not aware that the Tuam laundry was in fact a Magdalene Laundry,  much, much more disturbing were the revelations that on Athenry Road, just round the corner from where I was staying, was the Tuam Mother  and Baby Home run by the Bon Secours nuns. The remains of almost 800 children under three were discovered there in 2016/17 in a multitude of underground chambers (including, horrifically, in one report that one of the chambers was a sewage tank.)

Bon Secours means Good Help!

And all of this was happening while the people of Tuam went, unknowing(?), about their daily lives.

 

I WISH I HAD KNOWN HIM

Linked to this are two stories about my mother’s father. One of my aunts became pregnant in 1944. Although the father offered to marry her, my grandfather would not allow it. But, rather than banishing her and her child, as happened to so many unfortunate girls, my cousin was born in the family home and brought up with the family name. He did not however realise who his mother actually was until he was getting married and searched for his birth certificate when it all came out.

In fact, when I asked my own mother about Michael’s parents she told me they were dead, this despite the fact that her sister, now married with two children, was living less than a mile away from us in Carlisle.

My mother hated the Sisters of Mercy whose convent school she attended in Tuam. They were brutal.

She tells of them especially picking on and beating one of her classmates who was very pretty with beautifully long hair. Does one need a degree in psychiatry to read sexual repression into that?

My mother herself was beaten on one occasion whereupon my grandfather went up to the convent and said to the nun in question, “You lay a finger on my daughter again and I’ll break that stick across your back!”

In the Ireland of the late 1920s, dominated as it was by the Catholic Church, that took, I think, some determination.

Granddad, however, had joined the Inniskilling Dragoon Guards in 1900, gaining several Queen’s Medals and clasps and, inter alia, serving against the Boers in South Africa in 1901-02.

I should imagine he was afraid of nothing.

 

GIVING UP THE DRINK

My favourite story about him is how he became a Pioneer, in Ireland a member of the Total Abstinence Association.  In the 1920s pubs in Ireland were shut on Sundays. My grandfather, like many others, liked a pint after Mass and before dinner. His chosen pub was Quinn’s Rustic Vaults on Vicar St which dates back to the early 1800s.

One Sunday, he and several others were there having a quiet drink when the Gardai (Police) raided it – a fairly usual occurrence in those days. The well- worn routine was to run out of the back door, down the garden and over the wall, still holding your pint. When the Gardai had left, empty-handed as it were, back in the drinkers would go. This particular Sunday, the Gardai returned twice further, occasioning the same escape routine. Having gone over the wall for the third time, my grandfather looked at the pint in his hand and said, “If a man can’t have a drink in peace, he might as well not drink at all!”

He flung the glass against the wall and joined the Pioneers.

In 2019 I enjoyed a pint of Smithwicks there in his honour, paying homage to the memory of him, the back door, garden and the wall!

His obituary in The Tuam Herald in November 1949 described him as ‘… a fine active type of man…cheerful and obliging…held in the highest regard by all classes’

 

CARLISLE TO SLIGO

The train for Stranraer from Carlisle left in the late afternoon with a change at Dumfries.

In those days you could sleep overnight on the boat and I still have a clear memory of the purser making white bread luncheon meat sandwiches for supper for myself and a few other travellers.

The boat to Larne was supposed to leave at 7.00 in the morning but in those days of integrated transport it waited for the arrival of the London–Stranraer boat train, which was late.

It was absolutely essential that I arrived in Enniskillen in time to catch the second and last bus of the day to Sligo at 4 pm.

From Larne the train went to the old York Road station in Belfast. I and several others piled into a taxi for the two mile journey to Great Victoria St station.

I ran into the station and up to the ticket barrier to see the back of the 11.15 train to Londonderry/Derry pulling away. A minute earlier and I would have caught it.

(A shibboleth which still exists – Londonderry/Derry or, more recently, Stroke City)

“There’s a duplicate at 11.20,” said the ticket collector.

Huge sigh of relief.

“But of course that’s gone long ago!”

So, I spent several hours sitting in the station waiting for the next train having sent a telegram to Sligo to say I would be late.

My obsession with arriving early for trains, boats and planes stems from this and my earlier experience of getting to Tuam, now 65 plus years ago, and I’ve never been able to exorcise it.

I eventually got off the train at Omagh, now forever remembered for one the most horrific mass murders of the IRA campaign to ‘free’ Ulster, but a quiet town in those days.

On the bus to Enniskillen from Omagh as we were passing through a very quiet village (Ballintrillick?) I was surprised to see a policeman strolling down the main (only) street cradling a sub-machine gun.

I learned later that he would have been a B Special policeman, one of the (Protestant) paramilitary group formed to protect the Protestant state .

Obviously, when I got to Enniskillen the bus to Sligo was long gone.

However, a friendly regular young RUC constable knowing I was obviously stranded told me that since it was market day there probably would be cattle farmers from Sligo in town who could give me a lift.

In fact he commandeered a car to confirm that there were indeed farmers from Sligo in the cattle market. Interestingly, he wouldn’t actually enter the cafe in the market. An act of kindness I often thought of in later years when the RUC was the target of murderers.

Beyond Enniskillen the border on the UK side is at Belcoo. In those days the customs post was protected by sandbags and barbed wire.  A third of a mile down a straight road was Blacklion in the Republic with not a sandbag in sight.

(A few years ago my wife, Marcella, and I drove from Enniskillen to Derry weaving in and out the border; the only indication of which country we were in came from road signs in kph or mph or ‘Yield’ at junctions in the Republic).

So, at about 10.30 that night, having been dropped in Collooney by one of the cattle farmers, and then having caught a late bus to Sligo, I eventually arrived.

My granny, 79 years old, having had her nightly tot of whiskey, had gone to bed at her usual time saying her rosary for my safe arrival and totally confident that I would, in fact, arrive safely.

 

THE LANDSCAPE OF THE PAST

Sligo, with Knocknarea on one side, topped by the supposed burial cairn of Mebh (Maeve ) of Connacht of The Cattle Raid of Cooley fame, and Ben Bulben on the other, (Yeats is buried ‘Under bare Ben Bulben’s head’), was the scene of great fun with my cousin Gerry who was the same age as me . I saw him in June of this year. He is now sadly limited by vascular dementia but still able to remember events from our summers of long ago.

The very landscape is awesomely rich in ancient (i.e. more than 4000 years old) monuments.

Outside the front door of my aunt and uncle’s house in Garavogue Villas, situated on a small roundabout above the river, is the Abbeyquarter Stone Circle, also known locally as the Garavogue Fairy Fort  In fact the circle is the reason why the houses there are actually on a roundabout. Here and in what follows I am indebted to Fr Michael O’Flanagan’s History and Heritage website http://www.carrowkeel.com/sites/coolrea/abbeyquarter.html.

While I was always aware of the local name for the circle, it is only as I recalled and researched my memories that its full significance became apparent. Garavogue is apparently named after the ‘great hag or cailleach, the primal goddess of the early Neolithic farmers…. Abbeyquarter may be the oldest of all the early passage-graves, the primary burial place of the first group colonists to arrive to Sligo.’ (O’Flanagan). She appears as the Red Woman (who appears in Lady Gregory’s  re-telling of Irish legends round Finn MacCool Gods and Fighting Men in 1904) and also as Mebh of Connacht. Her latest incarnation apparently is in Game of Thrones as Melisandre.

A very readable re-telling of legends around Maeve and Cú Chulainn can be found in Patricia Finney’s two novels A Shadow of Gulls (1977 (written before she was 18) andThe Crow Goddess (1978).

Another fact to emerge is that the earliest settlers of Sligo were probably farmers from the Carnac region of Brittany some 6,000 years ago. I remember on a holiday to the Quimper/Beg Meil region of Brittany making a visit to Les Alignements, or Standing Stones, at Carnac.

A small world!

The Garavogue river (the shortest river in Ireland?) flows for two miles from Lough Gill to Sligo town and then to the sea, past the original Coney Island to Rosses Point where my cousins and I would go swimming on what always seemed to be sunny Sunday afternoons.

On the shores of Lough Gill is Tobernalt,  a popular place of Catholic pilgrimage from Sligo in late July in the years when I visited. Even today a pilgrimage still takes place because of the well’s association with Penal Times two hundred plus years ago when Catholics would gather there to hear Mass.

In comparison with the time of my visits to Ireland when weekly attendance at Mass was over 90% today the figure is 27%. In the 50’s and 60’s churches had notices in their porches  forbidding Catholics from attending dances on Saturday nights (not that there were any) – presumably for fear that they wouldn’t get up for Mass on Sunday mornings. Consequently, Sunday was the night to go to a dance. Like continental Europe, most major specifically Irish sporting fixtures, Gaelic football and hurling, took place on Sundays.

However, the well dates from long before the Christian era (possibly around 4.000 BC) and was associated with cures for eyesight and madness with perhaps connections to queen Mebh. It will probably survive the decline of Christianity in Ireland because of its long associations with the spiritual, even sacred, essence of water surviving from much earlier cultures

It is not at all surprising that W B Yeats – in my (limited?) critical judgement, the greatest poet in English of the century 20th – and, like Seamus Heaney, not an ‘English’ poet – should have found so much inspiration for his creative genius in the Sligo of his childhood holidays. The landscape resonates through the poems from the earliest to the last – Glencar, Dromahair, the Rosses, the Salley Gardens situated in Ballisodare ( the last syllable pronounced as in deer not rare) five miles south of Sligo, Innisfree, Lissadell, Benbulben, and Drumcliffe where he is buried with the simplest and most profound inscription on his headstone:

Cast a cold eye

On life, on death.

Horseman, pass by!

Legends were part of people’s everyday knowledge. My uncle Larry who worked for Foley’s Brewery in Sligo would occasionally take me with him on delivery trips into the surrounding countryside. On one occasion in the Ox Mountains he stopped the lorry and pointed out what appeared to be a footprint in the rock by the side of the road.

“That’s where Oisin (pronounced ‘Uh-sheen’) stepped off his horse and aged three hundred years.”

The legend was that Oisin (son of Finn MacCool) had spent those three hundred years in Tír na nÓg, the land of eternal youth. He was allowed to return but told not to get off his horse.  He did, and as soon as his foot touched the ground he instantly aged and soon died.

Just outside my grandmother’s birthplace of Easkey is the Split Rock of Easkey, a huge boulder split in two in an otherwise flat landscape. Legend has it that you can pass through the split twice but on the third time it will close up on you.

My daughter walked through it three times in 2019 but she wasn’t swallowed!

A Lough Gill legend from Fr Flanagan’s website:

Once there was a man building a beautiful boat and when he had it finished he decided to call it The Lady of the Lake.

 One day he went up the lake in it and when he was half way up a mermaid appeared to him and she said, “Go back and change the name of that boat.  There is only one Lady of the Lake and that is all that there will be”.

So the man went home and changed the name. If he had not obeyed the mermaid he probably would have been drowned.

In the version that I heard the boat sank and the owner did drown!

The more prosaic fact is that a small paddle steamer called The Lady of the Lake operated between Dromahair and Sligo for thirty years in the nineteenth century.

When did facts ever stand in the way of a good story?

As I mentioned earlier, my grandmother was born in 1879 in Easkey, a remote village on the Atlantic coast in county Sligo. It is now a stop on the Wild Atlantic Way tourist trail from Malin Head in the north to Kinsale in the south as well as a popular destination for surfers. I have often wondered if she knew people who had survived The Great Hunger (Cecil Woodham Smith) of the 1840s Irish famine. The memory remained difficult to handle in Ireland for a century and more afterwards – it was only in 1994 the National Famine Museum was established at Strokestown in county Roscommon.

Last year it was a moving experience to visit the abandoned Village of Slievemore near Dugort on Achill Island and to see the ‘lazy beds’ where potatoes were grown simply by laying them on the ground and covering them. When blight struck it was a mortal disaster, leading directly and indirectly to a million or more deaths.

(Even today we can get blight here in North West England after warm and wet weather. Luckily we can recognise it and if you act very quickly and cut off the diseased tops you can, perhaps, save something of the crop).

The poverty of the land in much of the west made it a suitable place of banishment for the defeated Catholic Irish when Oliver Cromwell told them they could “Go to Hell or to Connacht!”  – death or exile.

When I first visited Ireland and spoke to people of my own age, my English accent almost immediately made them bring up Cromwell so that it seemed as if he had only left Ireland a few years ago instead of three hundred.

Right up until the (ultimately false) boom of the Celtic Tiger, emigration was the chosen method of seeking a better life for nearly two million Irish people, my own parents, aunts, uncles, cousins included.

The Irish diaspora means that, apart from finding Irish pubs wherever you are in the world (on a recent visit to Bergamo I found three), an Irish passport means a warmer welcome from immigration officials from Singapore to Los Angeles, as we discovered on a round the world trip in 2012.

However, as countless songs and poems convey, the longing for ‘home’ never really dies among the exiles so, as I mentioned at the start of this piece, there has always been for me (a native Carliol) a comforting sense of ‘coming home ‘ whenever I visit Ireland.