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Chirk

CARROG

It was an iron hard January Sunday

before dawn when I left Bala – that one street,

Bible town – for the first time and forever,

a white fiver in the lining of my coat.

I shut up the rented, furnished cottage,

putting the key through the letter box.

I heard it rattle on the slate floor,

and walked down the dark track to the high street

with its single gas lamp. I had my father’s

cardboard suitcase for my clothes, my mother’s

worn music satchel for my poems.

 

My parents died of phthisis a month apart

the year of the Jubilee, when beacons

flickered from hill top to mountain summit.

My tad had led a strike at Blaenau

and never worked in the quarries again.

My mam played the organ in the chapel

and the old tunes on the harp at home.

 

I took the unlit path to the station.

It curved round the head of the lake,

which lapped unseen on the pebbly shore.

The Dee rises above the lake, flows through it,

down valleys, past meadows to the Irish Sea.

I crossed the black river, fast with winter rains,

by a narrow, clattering wooden bridge.

 

As the first train from Barmouth arrived

with surges of steam and clanking metal,

snow began to fall, big flakes drifting down

slowly, glinting in the guttering lights.

I had a warm compartment to myself,

the seat cloth smelling, as usual,

of sharp soot and stale tobacco smoke.

I watched the flakes melt on the toes of my boots.

 

In the softening light of the oil lamps

the sepia photographs glowed: of the line

of bathing machines on Barmouth beach,

and swimmers diving from the flat rocks

in the Dee at Llangollen, and Chirk Castle

on its commanding rise. I would change at Chirk –

no more than twenty miles from Bala

as a crow might fly over Glyn Ceiriog,

and where I had never been – to catch

the Great Western Paddington express.

I thought of the pictures I had seen of London,

imagined myself feeding the pigeons

in Trafalgar Square, walking purposefully

along Fleet Street to buy a typewriter

second hand, browsing on Charing Cross Road.

 

We stopped at Corwen, snow falling faster.

I heard a compartment door slam shut

and the guard’s whistle trill. The train jerked.

In my head, I counted the poems

in the satchel: twenty nature poems

in Welsh, ten poems in English of

imagined love. When we arrived at Carrog –

named for the estate that occupied the land –

the snow seemed to fall faster, more thickly,

against the yellow of the station’s lamps.

 

Carrog was a halt and yet the five minutes

became ten, fifteen – and the compartment chilled,

as a grey daylight spread and a porter

extinguished the lamps. I barely noticed,

reciting my poems sotto voce,

until the guard opened the carriage door.

He was English and, as he snuffed out

the oil lamps, told me there was a flock of sheep

blocking the line near Glyndyfrdwy.

 

In the waiting room, another passenger

and the porter were standing close to the fire,

holding forth in Welsh about snows of the past.

They made room for me, and the porter

began to talk of Owain Glynd?r

and his escape – by way of Glyn Ceiriog –

from his obtuse English pursuers.

The other began punning Glynd?r

with Glyndyfrdwy – valley of water,

valley of the Dee. ‘Dyfrdwy, Dyfrdwy,’

he said over and over and laughed.

‘The very sound of water flowing over stones –

as elusive as the prince himself.’

 

My Sunday of leaving home and heavy snow

was Bloody Sunday in St Petersburg,

unarmed factory workers massacred

in front of the Romanov’s Winter Palace –

while I was mouthing my poetry

of romance and wilderness.

I wrote no poems after that – only prose.

The halt at Carrog had become for me

an icon of provincial whimsy,

of rural nostalgia, soft as the witless

sheep flocking in snow on the iron rails,

as chords plucked on a harp.

 

 

 

GEORGE GERSHWIN AT CHIRK CASTLE

Chirk Castle from the North, Peter Tillemans, 1725
Chirk Castle from the North, Peter Tillemans, 1725


As we walk up the steep driveway, stopping

for breath at the curve where the castle

comes into sight – raised to block the routes

through the Dee Valley and Glyn Ceiriog

to starve the Welsh – a beribboned Rolls

descends, bride waving, followed, on foot,

by the wedding party in straggles –

black suits and brown shoes, wispy wedding hats –

treading the incline with tipsy effort.


‘The radio and the telephone

And the movies that we know

May just be passing fancies,

And in time may go!’


George Gershwin, born Jacob Gershovitz,

the second son of Russian immigrants,

ex song plugger in Tin Pan Alley

at Remick’s on West 28th Street,

in his thirtieth year visits Europe,

renews acquaintance with Alban Berg,

Ravel, Poulenc,  Milhaud, Prokokiev

and William Walton, hears Rhapsody in Blue

and Concerto in F performed in Paris.


From the grassed walk above the Ha-ha,

we can see the main gates, unused now,

the lane to the station, the Cadbury

and MDF factories, the market town

of Chirk itself and, beyond, the panorama –

from Bickerton Hills to The Long Mynd –

as we follow the trail of illicit confetti

to the Doric Temple aka summerhouse.


‘But, oh my dear,

Our love is here to stay.

Together we’re

Going a long, long way.’


The 8th Lord Howard De Walden – Tommy

to friends and family, Eton and Sandhurst,

Boer War and Great War, race horse owner,

playwright, theatre impresario –

turned its 14th century chapel

into a concert hall and invited George.

The westering sun shines upon us, dreaming

in the Temple, your head upon my shoulder.

A flock of starlings swarms suddenly

above the town – waltzing, deceiving like

a net, substantial, delicate – and is gone.


‘In time the Rockies may crumble,

Gibraltar may tumble,

There’re only made of clay,

But our love is here to stay.’


There is no public record of what he played

or when or how he got here. I like to think

he chose the stopping train from Paddington,

to work on An American in Paris,

and that Tommy met him personally

at Chirk Station, drove him up the hill,

in his Hispano-Suiza, through the baroque

wrought iron gates replete with wolves’ and eagles’ heads –

and as they, genius and renaissance man,

chatted about the history of the place,

along the chestnut lined drive among

the grazing sheep, George thought of Brooklyn’s

geometric streets and of Manhattan’s roar.


Remick's Music Store, 1914
Remick's Music Store, 1914

 

 

Note: an edited version of this piece has been subsequently published in ‘A Jar of Sticklebacks’ – http://www.armadillocentral.com/general/a-jar-of-sticklebacks-by-david-selzer