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Manchester

SLAVERY’S DIVIDENDS

David Selzer By David Selzer4 Comments2 min read1.9K views

The Duke of Wellington vowed he would never

travel by train again – and, while still alive,

kept his vow. (His corpse was conveyed in state

by rail from his house in Kent to London).

The official opening of the Liverpool-

Manchester railway ought to have been one

of unqualified celebration: the first

passenger train journey in the world hauled

by a steam locomotive; with VIPs

and a military band – albeit

seated on benches in open wagons,

except for the Duke, then Prime Minister,

and his party in a bespoke, covered carriage.

 

The dual track line had been built to convey –

more quickly than the horse drawn narrow boats

on the canals, or carts on the unmade roads –

the raw cotton unloaded at Liverpool

to Cottonopolis (i.e. Manchester)

and its satellite cotton mill towns

in south east Lancashire – and transport

the finished products back for export

to the growing British Empire’s colonies.

 

George Stephenson, who designed and built the line,

in order to show off the commercial

versatility of the dual track approach

on the day employed two engines – both of which

he had designed and built: the Northumbrian –

the Duke’s train, as it were – pulled rolling stock

from west to east; the Rocket east to west.

They met half way – at Parkside Station –

to take on water. There, the MP

for Liverpool, William Huskisson,

became the first railway fatality.

He fell on the north track, and the Rocket

crushed one of his legs. The Northumbrian,

pulling the first of its wagons – the one

the military band had been travelling in –

took the injured man to Eccles, where he died

in the vicarage. Meanwhile the bandsmen

began to march in step – or attempted to

given the sleepers and rubble

laid between them – back to Liverpool.

 

The much delayed train arrived in Manchester

in rain. A large crowd of mill workers,

remembering the Peterloo Massacre,

jeered loudly, and threw things. Wellington,

always a defensive general,

refused to alight. The train returned

to Liverpool – passing the still stumbling

and wet bandsmen – to a civic reception.

 

I first learned about Huskisson’s demise

in a history lesson in school – just the sort

of Goon Show/Pythonesque fact to appeal

to teenage boys. We did not learn about

how Stephenson was able to build the track

across Chat Moss, a peat bog, thousands

of years old and many metres deep,

a permanent way that operates now,

an engineering feat of genius,

a joyous testament to our large brains.

Nor did we learn that the whole business venture –

each spike, each bolt and nut, each foot of wrought iron

rail, and each of the many, expensive

courses at the celebratory banquet

in Liverpool’s town hall – had been funded

by the enslavement of Africans.

 

 

 

 

A VIEW FROM THE CASTLE

It is not the winter-grey Danube flowing –

hundreds of feet below – fast to Budapest,

nor the suspension bridge – with its high rise

circular restaurant – commemorating

the failed uprising against the Nazis,

nor the outline of the Vienna Alps

fifty miles away, nor the wind turbines

covering the plain between, but the concrete

Soviet era apartment blocks

now painted white and some in pastel shades

that first catch the eye from this stronghold

on a rocky hill far above the town

on the second day of 2018.

This must be Europe’s centre: liberated,

Catholic, polyglot; in Magyar,

German, Slovak; Pozsonyi Vár,

Pressburger Schloss, Bratislavsky Hrad.

 

As we descend the narrow, cobbled street

that turns with the hill’s contours, gusts of wind

whirl into the air small strips of gold paper,

detritus of New Year’s Eve celebrations,

and a party of Australian tourists

comes round the corner their resolute guide’s

tartan umbrella flapping unsafely.

 

*

 

The runway faces east so the plane

must bank westwards to fly by Vienna,

Prague, London to land at Manchester.

On the right are the Little Carpathians

with vineyards on the slopes and at their heart

wildernesses of beasts and plants still intact –

left, below, river, castle, tower blocks

reduced to perfection.

 

 

 

FLYING SOUTH

David Selzer By David Selzer2 Comments1 min read1.6K views

Ascending south east from Manchester, over

Eyam, the ‘plague village’, towards the Wash;

cruising over the Channel, observing

the shipping below me with wonder like some

latter day Bleriot; then Rotterdam’s docks

and the Rhine; sun glinting momentarily

like fireflies, and I am nonchalant

as Icarus, mindful as Daedalus,

noting place names freighted with histories;

past Munich, and the bared Austrian Alps,

then due south along the Balkan Mountains,

smoke drifting north from polluting fires,

roads following the contours, rivers the colour

of onyx; then the coast, and sea water

the westing sun has turned to mercury,

with Mycenae rightwards, leftwards Troy;

descending over the Dodecanese

to Cyprus – island of Aphrodite,

wine and olive trees, worked out copper mines,

abandoned churches – with its new money

and its old divisions.

 

 

 

A GOOSE IN THE BAMBOO

David Selzer By David Selzer5 Comments2 min read1.9K views

Catching a charter flight from Manchester,

the family eases through security

but I am detained – there are traces

of explosive in my backpack: poems

on the hard drive? The scanner is at fault.

 

At Nikos Kazantzakis Heraklion –

the only airport named for a writer –

one of our cases arrives broken

on the single baggage carousel

and one of the gent’s toilets has backed up

but ‘Zorba’s Dance’ is playing somewhere,

the sea beyond the runways could be almost

‘wine-dark’ and the oven heat warms old bones.

 

Our hotel room overlooks a valley

charmed by Cretan sun in early June, washed

in El Greco shades and citrus colours,

with the usual eclectic small holdings

among the scrub – olives, vines, tomatoes

and bananas; hens and cock scratching;

three nanny goats clanking; two black dogs caged;

a stand of bamboo. On our balcony

with our granddaughter we play ‘I spy’

– but we cannot see the goose that honks

periodically in the bamboo

and sets the watch dogs barking.

 

There are activities throughout the day

round the pool for children of all ages.

It is water polo time and chaps

from England, Poland, Germany play

boisterously but amicably.

The French study their screens, a quartet

of middle aged Israeli men is aloof,

two British Asian families remain

circumspect. We came last time in early May –

the Great Patriotic Holiday

enjoyed by affluent ethnic Russians.

Our granddaughter swims endlessly like a shrimp

in the cosmopolitan waters.

 

At Heraklion the security

is seasonal, part-timers attired

in G4S finery complete

with white lanyards so there is role play –

queues are long and scrutiny relaxed.

At Manchester, in the EU passport queue

we shuffle along, without music,

with passengers from Islamabad

to the ID scanner – and chuckle,

thinking of all the closet racists

who would swallow their tongues in such a queue.

At the scanner, a witty, local lass

in a hijab helps us. O brave new world

that has such! ARRIVALS is threatening

with armed police, loud with distant honking.

A car has been parked in the wrong place.

We have flown from attic comedy to low

farce, goosed in the process.