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French

THE BRIDGE AT HOUGH

And this poem, which will be about England,

and, in some part, the southern margins

of the North, and the vagaries of the tongue,

has already stalled at the title’s fourth word.

Does it rhyme with ‘though’ or ‘tough?  Or with ‘cow’

or ‘row’? That is ‘row’ as in beans, of course,

not as in a shouty altercation.

It is as in ‘huff’, ‘houfe’, ‘hoff’ – from the Old English

for the heel of a hill, a projecting ridge.

 

As you drive through the ancient hamlet,

you do not notice any raised ground or,

indeed, the place – scattered by the road

to the Potteries – but for the signs on leaving

and entering. At one end of the hamlet –

that on the eastern edge of Cheshire –

is the bridge itself: narrow, stone, hump-backed,

replaced and repaired since medieval times.

Beneath the bridge – famed now in the annals

of English verse! – runs Swill Brook, and along

its reedy banks are endangered colonies

of water voles: aka water rats,

rats taupier, arvicola

amphibius. The brook springs limpid

from the clayey earth some miles south, seeps

northwards into the River Weaver’s catchment,

and so into the Mersey, past Liverpool,

through St George’s Channel to the Atlantic.

England’s mercantile empire shoved its

Anglo-Saxon tongue – complete with French veneer

and Greco-Roman embellishments –

down the throats of millions.

 

 

THE GROVES

We are sitting on a bench in a peaceful

place popular even on a winter’s day

now lockdown has been eased. This tree-lined

terraced embankment beside the river –

with a bandstand and moorings for pleasure boats –

was commissioned by one of the city’s

Victorian worthies at his own expense

to match the elegant pedestrian

suspension bridge built by a developer.


If we sit here long enough with our take-out

hot chocolates and toasted sandwiches –

counting the passersby wearing masks –

someone we know may saunter past with their dog.

Here there used to be a whiteness of swans,

but a flock of panhandling black-headed gulls,

squawkily scrambling for the odd dry crust,

has, as it were, elbowed out the large mute birds.


When the Roman mercenaries built the camp

on the sandstone bluff behind us, when barques

from Anjou docked downstream with cargoes

of wine and spices, the air, like now,

was multi-lingual. We can hear snatches

of French and Polish, Greek and Arabic.


If we sit here long enough late winter’s

high tide may rise, as now, over the weir,

and begin to cover the embankment’s steps,

propelling various bosky flotsam

upstream at a proverbial rate of knots,

with a couple of mallards and a moorhen

floating past on a wizened trunk the size

of an alligator from the bayous.

GLOBALISATION

The summer LA hosted the Olympics –

the year the UK miner’s strike began,

and comrades became enemies, and things sure

fell irredeemably apart – we went

on a four day tour of mostly ancient Greece:

Corinth Canal; the amphitheatre

at Epidaurus; Nafplio’s converted

mosque; the Lion Gate at Mycenae;

Olympia’s temples; Delphi’s omphalos.

 

Swallows had made their mud nests in the eaves

of the three concrete hotels we stayed at,

the birds’ tender flights twittering omens

for travellers who were, in some ways,

an air-conditioned charabanc of fools:

a sour couple, escapees from the Games;

a young bull fighter from Mexico

with his aging parents; three frat boys

from Berkeley; a well dressed Swiss family

of four;  a Nam Vet paranoid about

the Cosa Nostra; a demanding

Italian family of five; a nice

young  couple from Denver keen on Benny Hill;

and us three quiet Brits the Americans thought

were French and the Europeans Yanks.

 

As we ascended towards Delphi,

with Mount Parnassus beyond, we drove

along Kolpos Iteas, Bayonet Bay.

Below, anchored in its deep, sheltered waters,

were a dozen oil tankers – gifts which some Greeks

would come bearing again in due course but,

meanwhile, lay becalmed in OPEC’s doldrums.

 

 

 

GRASSALKOVICH PARK, BRATISLAVA

Yesterday was New Year’s Eve and the fountain

was drained to prevent too much merriment.

So the bronze, nude young ladies disport themselves

in dry, cold air. The equestrian statue

of Maria Theresa, mother

of sixteen, and the last of the Holy

Roman Empresses appears unamused,

though whether by the municipality’s

actions or the girls’ appears unclear.

Last month’s heavy snow remains in small,

sheltered drifts behind occasional trees.

What was an Hungarian aristocrat’s

formal palace garden in the French style

has become – by dint of many wars

and a few revolutions – a public park,

where my granddaughter, descendant of Celts,

Jews and Vikings, a competitor, sprints

on the white, gravel paths.

 

 

 

RESURRECTION

Our house, the street’s first, was built epochs ago

on Cheshire pastureland. There has been nothing

for history to note here – only births, deaths,

the occasional fire and break-in,

and marriages at the Methodist Church

almost opposite us. Empires collapsed

from within – Austro-Hungarian,

British, French, German, Ottoman, Russian,

and Soviet. Here only the seasons came,

and bed-sits, then gentrification.

 

Now the St Petersburg Resurrection

A Cappella Choir – founded post-Gorbachev

to sing the liturgy in concert halls –

performs this autumn night in the church feet

from our front door. So powerful is this octet

the first three rows are kept entirely empty.

The utilitarian space fills with that

Russian Orthodox polyphony

guaranteed to make even an infidel’s

neck hairs tingle – plangent, sonorant, soulful.

I think of Tolstoy’s novel ‘Resurrection’,

his last – the hypocrisy of suppression,

the injustices of poverty,

the long path to redemption through cold, dull wastes.

 

During the interval, like a scene

from some implausible cold war movie

three Russian men in DJs – the two basses

and the conductor/founder of the choir

quietly, almost surreptiously, leave

the building, and go into the shadows

of the small, bushy garden. Matches flare.

Three cigarette ends glow.

 

 

 

 

AT LENIN’S TOMB

We joined the queue one warm afternoon two days

before Victory Day, and the week Putin

was first crowned. There were police everywhere –

mostly, it seemed, armed thirteen year olds

in wide-brimmed caps. One halted the queue

to allow a group of be-medalled,

self-conscious veterans to enter first.

Inside, we were ‘forbidden to smoke, talk, photograph,

video, or have your hands in your pockets’.

 

Exiled to the conifer forests

of Central Siberia with its gnat

legions of summer, its winter numbing,

he took his pseudonym then soubriquet

from the river Lena, its waters

replete with minerals and mammoth tusks.

 

Curious the great revolutionary

with that questioning, directing look  –

who found sleep elusive so studied French

grammar books to send him to the Land of Nod –

through no choice of his own, preserved like a

waxwork or a shaman!