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GERTRUDE BELL AND THE TREATY OF SÈVRES

David Selzer By David Selzer1 Comment2 min read1.9K views

Paris, 1920

 

The treaty was signed in the Exhibition Room,

overseen by Marie Antoinette’s

dinner service. Like porcelain owls’ eyes,

they were witnesses of the delegates’ harsh

geometry, the fretwork jigsaw of desk

wallahs – Ottoman Mesopotamia

become modern Syria and Iraq.

 

Gertrude Bell was one of the delegates:

daughter of a philanthropic iron master;

Oxford graduate like T.E. Lawrence;

cartographer, mountaineer, linguist;

archaeologist, administrator,

public servant; Arabist, Al-Khatun,

‘Queen of the Desert’; poet, fluent

in Farsee, translator of Hafiz;

confidante of seraglios, anti-

Suffragist; anti-Zionist, maker

of the Hashemite Kingdom of Iraq.

 

London, 1915

 

Between postings, lobbying powerful men,

as always, to let her be useful,

she continued her letters to ‘Dick’,

Charles Doughty-Wylie, career diplomat

and soldier, the unrequited, married

love of her life – eclectic letters

of Whitehall gossip, geo-political

tactics, romantic longing, and sorrow

for the Great War’s slaughters. Her last letter

was never finished. She had learned

of his death in action at Gallipoli.

 

Baghdad, 1926

 

She died from an overdose of sleeping pills.

There was no evidence of suicide.

King Faisal, the monarch she had made and whom

she was finding ‘difficult’ of late,

watched, from the shade of his private balcony,

the coffin carried through the dust to the thump

and blare of the garrison’s brass band.

He could see the Tigris beyond the graveyard.

His grandson’s disfigured body would be hung

from a lamp post near the square where Saddam’s

prodigious statue would be toppled with ropes.

 

‘To steadfastness and patience, friend, ask not
If Hafiz keep–
Patience and steadfastness I have forgot,
And where is sleep?’

 

 

 

 

 

 

WILLIE AND THE HARE

David Selzer By David Selzer2 Comments2 min read2.1K views

One had a lovely face,

And two or three had charm,

But charm and face were in vain

Because the mountain grass

Cannot but keep the form

Where the mountain hare has lain.

‘Memory,’ W.B. Yeats

 

Thomas Cubitt, London’s master builder, built

Woburn Buildings (on the Duke of Bedford’s land);

a pedestrianised street from Woburn Place

to what is now Euston Road, and abutting

St Pancras New Church with its caryatids

and ionic columns. Late Georgian London

on the up. Cubitt noted that hares came south

from Primrose Hill and from The Regent’s Park,

in the evenings, to rest on the paving stones.

 

W.B. Yeats, Willie to friends

and family, moved to the second floor

of number 18 ‘to be close to

the people’ or, rather, to further his

short-lived affair with his married mistress.

(That year Oscar Wilde chose not to cut

and run, and so found himself disgraced).

Willie noted a ‘handsome old grey hare’

resting beneath number 6’s bow window.

 

Two more London adoptees, Ezra Pound,

who brought T.S. Eliot, attended

Willie’s Monday ‘At Homes’, where Ezra

soon made himself indispensable,

dispensing his host’s Bushmills and Sweet Aftons,

then becoming his secretary,

marrying his mistress’s daughter

and dumping her in Paris with their son –

meanwhile making Yeats a modern poet.

 

Two geniuses and their mentor, mere

human beans all three, ambitious, amorous,

apprehensive, came and went – past

the shoemaker’s shop on the ground floor,

the workman and his family on the first,

and gossiped about art beneath the attic

where a pedlar painted water colours.

All are lost like the hares. Perhaps the bricks,

the pavings remember.

 

 

 

CARROG

It was an iron hard January Sunday

before dawn when I left Bala – that one street,

Bible town – for the first time and forever,

a white fiver in the lining of my coat.

I shut up the rented, furnished cottage,

putting the key through the letter box.

I heard it rattle on the slate floor,

and walked down the dark track to the high street

with its single gas lamp. I had my father’s

cardboard suitcase for my clothes, my mother’s

worn music satchel for my poems.

 

My parents died of phthisis a month apart

the year of the Jubilee, when beacons

flickered from hill top to mountain summit.

My tad had led a strike at Blaenau

and never worked in the quarries again.

My mam played the organ in the chapel

and the old tunes on the harp at home.

 

I took the unlit path to the station.

It curved round the head of the lake,

which lapped unseen on the pebbly shore.

The Dee rises above the lake, flows through it,

down valleys, past meadows to the Irish Sea.

I crossed the black river, fast with winter rains,

by a narrow, clattering wooden bridge.

 

As the first train from Barmouth arrived

with surges of steam and clanking metal,

snow began to fall, big flakes drifting down

slowly, glinting in the guttering lights.

I had a warm compartment to myself,

the seat cloth smelling, as usual,

of sharp soot and stale tobacco smoke.

I watched the flakes melt on the toes of my boots.

 

In the softening light of the oil lamps

the sepia photographs glowed: of the line

of bathing machines on Barmouth beach,

and swimmers diving from the flat rocks

in the Dee at Llangollen, and Chirk Castle

on its commanding rise. I would change at Chirk –

no more than twenty miles from Bala

as a crow might fly over Glyn Ceiriog,

and where I had never been – to catch

the Great Western Paddington express.

I thought of the pictures I had seen of London,

imagined myself feeding the pigeons

in Trafalgar Square, walking purposefully

along Fleet Street to buy a typewriter

second hand, browsing on Charing Cross Road.

 

We stopped at Corwen, snow falling faster.

I heard a compartment door slam shut

and the guard’s whistle trill. The train jerked.

In my head, I counted the poems

in the satchel: twenty nature poems

in Welsh, ten poems in English of

imagined love. When we arrived at Carrog –

named for the estate that occupied the land –

the snow seemed to fall faster, more thickly,

against the yellow of the station’s lamps.

 

Carrog was a halt and yet the five minutes

became ten, fifteen – and the compartment chilled,

as a grey daylight spread and a porter

extinguished the lamps. I barely noticed,

reciting my poems sotto voce,

until the guard opened the carriage door.

He was English and, as he snuffed out

the oil lamps, told me there was a flock of sheep

blocking the line near Glyndyfrdwy.

 

In the waiting room, another passenger

and the porter were standing close to the fire,

holding forth in Welsh about snows of the past.

They made room for me, and the porter

began to talk of Owain Glynd?r

and his escape – by way of Glyn Ceiriog –

from his obtuse English pursuers.

The other began punning Glynd?r

with Glyndyfrdwy – valley of water,

valley of the Dee. ‘Dyfrdwy, Dyfrdwy,’

he said over and over and laughed.

‘The very sound of water flowing over stones –

as elusive as the prince himself.’

 

My Sunday of leaving home and heavy snow

was Bloody Sunday in St Petersburg,

unarmed factory workers massacred

in front of the Romanov’s Winter Palace –

while I was mouthing my poetry

of romance and wilderness.

I wrote no poems after that – only prose.

The halt at Carrog had become for me

an icon of provincial whimsy,

of rural nostalgia, soft as the witless

sheep flocking in snow on the iron rails,

as chords plucked on a harp.

 

 

 

OCCAM’S RAZOR…

…a maxim named for a Franciscan friar,

William of Ockham, from the Surrey village –

and from London, Oxford, Avignon,

Munich – Pope’s enemy, Emperor’s friend,

dying just as the Black Death was scourging.

 

It is a metaphor, not logic chopping –

best summarised, perhaps, as ‘less is more’,

‘don’t over-egg the pudding’, even

‘fine words butter no parsnips’. He was

the radical philosopher of his age,

a nominalist – words are words, ideas

ideas, no more, no less. Plato, relinquo!

 

Avoiding an A3 rush hour traffic jam,

I drove through Ockham one rainy night,

watching the headlights follow the bendy turns

of the old field system and glisten

on the hedgerows and the oaks, and I thought

of the little boy, the brightest scholar

in the priest’s small school, being taken

for Mother Church’s future to London

in a jolting ox cart, his Latin

a passport through Europe.

 

 

 

TEATRO DEI RIUNITI

The Tiber’s olive waters curve past

Umbertide or, rather, the town curves

to the river in this limpid valley

alive with oak trees, willows, poplars

and millennia of settlements,

monuments – Etruscan, Roman, Lombard.

 

To impede the German’s retreat northwards,

the Allies bombed the bridge across the river

successfully and, collaterally,

razed a block of tall, narrow houses –

and many of their inhabitants.

 

The house numbers are brass inlaid in the setts

of what is now a car park in this

medieval town with its Via Papa

Giovanni XXIII, its Via

Kennedy, its Piazza Carlo Marx.

 

The Eighth Army built a bailey bridge

on the ancient arches – which was still there

when we performed Shakespeare, in English,

at the theatre. Unused and derelict

because of the war, the baroque theatre

was renovated by an alliance

of Communists and Christian Democrats,

I Riuniti. It had been a gift

from the town’s most famous son, Domenico

Bruni, a castrato, emasculated

for the usual reasons – poverty, greed.

A celebrity acclaimed and enriched,

he sang in Rome, Naples, Milan, London

and St Petersburg for Catherine the Great.

 

He might have stood by the deep canal

that channels the winter torrents through the town

from the mountains into the Tiber.

Our play was The Comedy of Errors,

in which one of the lads from Syracuse says,

‘He that commends me to mine own content

Commends me to the thing I cannot get.’

 

 

 

LIVERPOOL, 3RD MAY 1941

David Selzer By David Selzer1 Comment2 min read1.9K views

This is one of the great public, civic

spaces of the world – the museum,

the library, the gallery, the court house,

Wellington’s column, the Steble fountain,

the Empire Theatre, Lime Street Station,

St George’s Hall,  St John’s Gardens, vistas

of the river, the Wirral, the Welsh hills…

 

During the worst raid of the Liverpool Blitz

the museum was set ablaze – a bomb,

one of so many, supposedly

for the docks, that razed history, neighbourhoods.

My grandmother, Liverpool Welsh – who took tea

with Buffalo Bill and was offered a place

in a music hall chorus line but refused,

being the eldest of thirteen, her Da

at sea and her Ma at the sherry –

described to me in detail many times

the natural history collection:

stuffed walruses, condors and Don Pedro,

a retired Barnum and Bailey elephant –

all immolated, and washed away.

 

While mummy, daddy, grandma see ‘Evita’,

she and I make our way to the museum,

holding hands. I talk about history,

public and personal – my father,

a stranger, a London Jew, in transit

that May Saturday, joining a line

of desperate buckets. She listens –

in my company a serious,

concerned seven year old – and asks if fires

can ever be put out. ‘Yes, always…

eventually,’ I say. We decide

to explore as many floors as we can

from the top – space, dinosaur poo, bugs

but have no time for masks and totems –

and pause, me for rest, her to draw,

before, leaving a moment for ice cream,

we walk in the dusk, past the statues,

up the incline to the theatre crowds.

 

 

Note: first published April 2017.